Adjust Your Blade to the Proper Height to Manage Weeds
Mowing your lawn too low can weaken the grass. Taller grass tends to grow more robustly and densely, effectively suppressing weed growth. Weed seeds have difficulty germinating.
germinate
simply because they receive minimal sunlight. Well-established weeds find it more challenging to outcompete the adjacent grass.
Every variety of grass thrives at specific heights; typically, this optimal level lies around 2-1/2 inches for cool-season varieties. Warm-season grasses generally fare better when kept slightly lower, ideally between 1-1/2 to 2 inches. Should you be uncertain about which kind of grass grows in your yard, consider taking a piece from your lawn to a nearby garden center for identification. Alternatively, searching ‘determine my grass’ using any web browser can provide assistance as well. Despite many yards having multiple kinds of grass, their preferred trimming levels tend to align closely with one another.
Choose Durable Ground Covers for Dimly Lit Sections
Turfgrass thrives in sunny conditions and generally requires between six to eight hours of direct sunlight each day to remain healthy. Although certain varieties can tolerate some degree of shade and might survive beneath trees or in protected areas, these locations often result in sparse growth, weed infestations, and patches of barren earth. Instead, consider cultivating a dedicated shade garden or opting for an alternative landscaping approach when dealing with predominantly shaded spaces.
shade-tolerant ground cover
In just a few years, this space will be covered with a lush green carpet. Plus, there’ll be no need for mowing. A specialist from a nearby garden center will guide you on selecting the most suitable plants and groundcovers for your specific location.
Avoid Battling Weeds in Areas Where Grass Struggles to Thrive
Bad lighting or poor soil quality can make it extremely difficult to cultivate grass in certain spots. If you’ve attempted multiple times without success to get grass growing in an area, perhaps it’s best to abandon the effort and opt for a different landscape solution instead. Common alternatives include stones, mulch, and visually appealing options.
ground cover plants
Those capable of enduring what grass cannot manage. Eliminate all weeds using a nonselective herbicide (apply again to persistent ones after ten days). This product will decompose within fourteen days, making the area suitable for planting anew.
Utilize landscape fabric staples to secure the seams.
Landscape fabric in plant beds frequently develops gaps where sections meet. Fix this issue using landscaping staples, which you can usually locate near the fabric in retail outlets. Ensure that each edge of the fabric overlaps by a minimum of three inches. Do not hold back on placing staples—install one every sixteen inches. Additionally, utilize staples along all borders for secure fastening.
hard soil
Start the staples manually and then use your foot to press them in.
Use a Mini Tank Sprayer for Treating Weedy Areas
Clusters or patches of weeds
should ideally be handled using a conventional 1- or 2-gallon backpack sprayer. Following application, thoroughly triple-rinse the container with water. Each time you rinse, build up some pressure within the unit and also clear out the extension hose.
Utilize a Dial Sprayer When Weeds Become Unmanageable
When your entire lawn is overrun with weeds, using a dial sprayer connected to your garden hose can be a quick and effective solution. Simply mix the required amount of concentrated broadleaf weed remover into the reservoir as indicated on the herbicide label—such as 2-1/2 tablespoons per gallon of water—and adjust the dial accordingly. After attaching the garden hose, evenly spray the affected parts of your lawn.
Remove all toys, furniture, and other items from the yard that could become contaminated by overspray. Also, make certain to shield your belongings.
flowers
And cover the bushes with plastic sheeting or cardboard. Keep in mind that broadleaf herbicides can damage or destroy anything leafy, including your flowerbed.
Recognize Weeds Before Formulating the Strategy
Before beginning any weed management program, you should first identify which of the three types
types of weeds
you’re controlling. Broadleaf weeds like creeping charlie have leaves, perennial grassy weeds like quack grass spread through roots and seeds, and annual grassy weeds like crab grass reseed themselves at the end of each growing season and germinate in the spring.
Each one needs specific products and distinct application techniques. Certain treatments have strict timing requirements, whereas others can be carried out at any point throughout the growing season.
Stop Crabgrass Using a Pre-emergent Herbicide
The easiest way to
get rid of crabgrass
The objective is to prevent it before it begins developing. Use a preemergent herbicide following your second lawn cutting in the spring season. Crabgrass originates from seeds dispersed in prior years. This herbicide stops these seeds from sprouting. These seeds can stay active for multiple years, hence applying an herbicide each spring is advisable. A single application during spring significantly decreases the necessity of combating crabgrass later when it has emerged.
Post-emergent herbicides generally pose minimal risk to pets and humans, but always ensure you adhere strictly to the application guidelines provided.
Killing Broadleaf Weeds
A
broadleaf weed
Any unwanted lawn plant that is not a grass can be considered a weed. Examples include dandelions, plantain, ground ivy (also known as creeping Charlie), and ragweed—these are among the most prevalent types of broadleaf weeds. To prevent their growth at the onset of spring, you should apply a pre-emergent herbicide beforehand.
This product eliminates weeds before they emerge from seeds and also tackles those that have only recently begun growing. Place your broadcast spreader either on a tarp or on the driveway when filling it up (as grains might spill), since an excessive amount of herbicide applied directly onto the lawn could harm even thriving grass. Load the spreader with the herbicide and apply it uniformly across your lawn during your initial three mowing sessions in springtime.
Handling late-season broadleaf weeds
Should some broadleaf weeds appear in your yard (dandelions are often inevitable), you can target them using a post-emergent herbicide. Check the product label for “broadleaf killer” and ensure it addresses the specific weeds present. Certain broadleaf herbicides may also control crabgrass. It isn’t necessary to cover the whole lawn; focus only on the weed-infested sections.
Killing Annual Grassy Weeds
Annual
grassy weeds
Sprout annually from seeds. Each autumn, these weeds perish, yet leave behind seeds that sprout come the next spring. Crabgrass stands out as the most infamous among them; however, you’ll also encounter others such as yellow foxtail and nutsedge. Apply a pre-emergent herbicide during early spring to eradicate the seeds of these yearly grassy weeds prior to their growth.
The most typical option is crabgrass preventer; however, consider using an herbicide with Dimension during the spring since it can eliminate broadleaf weed seeds too. Crabgrass frequently flourishes near sidewalks and driveways due to higher temperatures in these zones, hence ensure you apply the herbicide in such locations.
Eliminating late-season grassy weeds
The most effective method to manage sporadic annual grassy weeds is to target them using a post-emergent herbicide specifically designed for such weeds. Combine the concentrate with water as per the instructions provided by the manufacturer, and subsequently transfer this solution into a hand-held spray bottle.
Spray each separate patch of weeds. Make certain there is sufficient vegetation present to effectively take up the weed killer; therefore, avoid mowing the weeds both prior to application and for about three days afterward. Before using the herbicide, always carefully review the product label to confirm that it is effective against the specific weeds you aim to eliminate without damaging your grass.
Eliminate Persistent Grassy Weeds: It’s Not Too Late
When the number of weeds becomes overwhelming and can no longer be managed manually, drastic action must be taken. Eradicate all vegetation before beginning anew. Apply a non-selective herbicide to the affected region and allow two weeks for the treatment to take effect. Repeat spraying if necessary until the weeds have succumbed. Only after ensuring complete destruction should you proceed further with your landscaping plans.
mow
Make them brief. Spray the herbicide, then wait 14 days before planting new grass to avoid killing it.
Eliminating Persistent Grassy Weeds Individually
Quackgrass is a type of grass that lives for many years.
This phenomenon recurs annually. It proliferates via seeds and expansive subterranean root networks and remains impervious to broadleaf herbicides.
You can remove it manually by hand, or use a garden spade or weed removal tool, ensuring you do so before it becomes too established. Alternatively, you might attempt to eliminate it through heating methods, such as employing a flame weeder or by laying down plastic sheeting over the affected area, allowing the intense summer sunlight to cook it beneath the cover for about seven days.
Non-selective herbicides can also be effective, yet they come with extra safety precautions that must be considered when using them. Furthermore, these products have been prohibited in certain areas.
Frequently Asked Questions
Will mulch stop weeds?
Mulch can’t entirely eliminate weeds. If applied thickly enough, it stops numerous weed seeds present in the soil from sprouting and developing. However, it doesn’t inhibit weeds that are already established. Resilient plants such as
dandelions
will push right through if you don’t dig them out first. And more weed seeds will blow in and take root in the mulch (in both organic and stone). All mulch-covered gardens require maintenance, though less than if you don’t use mulch.
What thickness should I use when applying organic mulch?
A layer of mulch between 3 to 4 inches thick can prevent most weed seeds in the soil from germinating and help retain moisture. Nonetheless, an excessive amount may not be beneficial. Keep the thickness within 5 to 6 inches, particularly for plants with shallow roots. Also, ensure you maintain some space between the plant stems and the mulch to avoid rotting.
If you plan to utilize organic mulch on sloped areas, apply a shredded variety approximately 6 inches deep. This will form a cohesive mass and remain more securely in position compared to a less thick covering.
Is it advisable to place landscaping fabric beneath the mulch?
Avoid placing fabric beneath organic mulch; instead, allow it to break down naturally and blend with the soil. Reserve fabric for areas covered with stones or gravel where it can prevent rock settling and facilitate future replacement should you decide to switch materials. This layer of fabric will hinder weed growth originating from below. Opt for a permeable fabric that facilitates drainage and airflow over non-porous plastics, particularly when landscaping around established vegetation like trees and bushes.
Sadly, landscape fabric also makes weed removal incredibly challenging; you can’t easily insert a shovel through the rocks and fabric. Additionally, pulling out weeds that have taken hold within the fabric is quite laborious.
